The Mahamandap (Great Hall) at the Mahalakshmi Temple in Bandivade, Goa provides a therapeutic escape from many of Goa busy attractions. It is a perfect place to sit undisturbed and commune with the divine. On this early morning, regular devotees went about their prayers silently and tourist laden buses had not yet arrived.

In front of the Deul (Konkani for Temple, also Devasthan), notice the Deepa Stamba (Light tower), a characteristic of Goa Konkani temples. Around the temple are guest rooms for traveling devotees at nominal costs.

The Deul was originally in the village of Kolambe, near present day Colva beach. When the Portuguese destroyed it, devotees smuggled the murthy of Mahalakshmi (Great Lakshmi) first to the town of Talauli (aka Talavali, Talaulim) where it resided in the home of a priest. It was then moved to its present location in Bandivade in Ponda, where a small temple was established in 1866. Upgrades and expansions have occurred ever since. Today it is a magnificent example of Konkani temple architecture in Goa.

Mahalakshmi is respected as a form of Durga Devi, as described in the Durga Saptashati (aka Chandi PaTh or Devi Mahatmyam). Devi is an independent Goddess to whom the Gods turn for help in their hour of need. Mahalakshmi is depicted as the Goddess of Wealth and resides as an independent Goddess and not as a spouse of Vishnu.

A careful observation of shadows will reveal that the following pics were taken in the evening, during an earlier trip. Beautiful, no?

• Ramnathi Devasthan, A Konkani Temple
• Flower sellers at the Ramnathi Devasthan
• Mangeshi Devasthan
• Sacred Places: Avalanche of Christian Aid in India
• Revisionism about the Portuguese Inquisition

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References:
• VN Kudva, History of the Dakshinatya Saraswats, Madras, (1972, 1991).

I have tracked scores of such books from the 18th and 19th century which shed a grim light on the atrocities of the Portuguese. In the midst of an enormous amount of historical literature, there are always the revisionists, trying to cast a softer glow on the Portuguese Inquisition. This one by an ordained priest takes the cake.

A few lines from his work and my related comments.
An Historical Sketch of Goa, Rev. Denis L. Cottineau de Kloguen (DK)
Gazette Press, Madras (1831), Reprinted pp 44-45
Also available digitized from the Library at Harvard College, Cambridge, MA; Pg 69 – 70.

Original text in italics is contiguous in one paragraph; my comments are in regular text.

AS – In this paragraph, the Reverend is trying to defend the Archbishop D Alexins de Menezes.
DK – … Some acts of violence by the Portuguese agents may have been committed, both before and after him, but they are not to be imputed to him.
AS - Really! Everyone else is to blame, but not the Archbishop.

DK – It is equally false, that, followed by the officers of the Inquisition, he went armed with fire and sword, to compel the inhabitants of Salsette to embrace the Christian religion. The Jesuits converted a great part of them by the usual and most laudable means;
AS – Reminded me of the recent controversial remarks by Pope Benedict 16th: (from the NY Times) “… in Brazil, … native populations had been “silently longing” for the Christian faith brought to South America by colonizers.” The Rev is probably alluding to such an “innate longing” for torture and death.

DK – but in order as they thought, the better to detach the remainder of the inhabitants from worship of idols, they destroyed all the temples and pagodas.
AS – Much to the embarrassment of the Jesuits, many forced converts continued to visit temples and kept to their traditional Hindu ways. The only way to prevent this was to destroy the temples. How many is “all”?

DK – This however, had the contrary effect; and the Pagans, exasperated at this circumstance, rose up in arms, murdered five jesuits, and several Portuguese.
AS – Did the Jesuits really expect anything else? Note the choice of the word “murdered” when associated with the Jesuits and the Portuguese. BTW, when “all temples and pagodas” were destroyed, how many of the locals were killed? Smoothly overlooked.

DK – The Governor then felt himself obliged to use arms likewise to reduce the rebels; and of course did not after wards permit the temples to be rebuilt.
AS – “reduce the rebels” here is an euphemism for “massacring the population”! And since when did the locals become the “rebels” in their own lands?

DK – But in all this, the Archbishop had nothing to do, and what is certainly better proved, are the good works and the pious establishments of Goa, of which he is the founder.
AS – Surprised he has not been nominated to be made a Saint!

As the sun set, the clouds broke up and we were treated to this beautiful medley. My camera was busy, but I also remembered to just sit in one place and let it all soak in. It so relaxed the spirit to see kids frolicking in the water, adults acting like kids, and many other aimlessly strolling through the surf. The simple joys! We walked back and forth on the beach reminding ourselves over and over again – This could be the life. No deadlines, no projects, no students, fellows, or bosses. No stress! No paychecks!

We walked till the sun dipped below the horizon and then found our way back to the room. See one more previously posted here.

#3

#4

#5

#6, Prolly should be titled, How not to shoot a Panorama!
With the range of lights and colors, the automatic setting adjusted for each frame separately. It was a disaster trying to put it all together. But it seems to convey what i saw and felt at Colva Beach!
Serene beauty and Peace!

(click image for a larger version)

Closeup of wall calendars:
From left:
Vishnu and Lakshmi;
Krishna demonstrating his all pervading form and as Arjuna's charioteer;
Saraswati, Lakshmi and Ganapati;
Lakshmi (in a form represeting the divine mother incorporating all the other devis in her! yes, deep)
Venugopal (Krishna playing the flute)

During this two and half week holiday, I checked my e-mail twice. Sorry, I haven't replied to all the birthday wishes – will get to it soon. And will catch-up with your lives as well. Hopefully, I didn't miss anything important.

In the meantime, a quick jhalak of Colva Beach, Goa! It was overcast all day and rained in the afternoon. But as the sun set, the clouds broke and we were treated to this beautiful vista. It was a rare relaxing day on this trip. Enjoy!

When daylight streaked the sky, the train had stopped at Ratnagiri. There this couple boarded, with an unusually large retinue to see them off. As the train raced towards Goa, I chatted with the guy. Generally I asked, and he answered. I wanted to know where all, and what they were gonna be doing in Panji, in detail! He seemed evasive and I kept probing. Finally he relented under by barrage, giggled, and confessed they were on their honeymoon to Goa! Aaarghh!!! I couldn't stop laughing.

Later, as she dosed off on his lap, I thought they struck a cute pose.

As she dreamt of a beautiful life ahead, he seemed preoccupied! With what, I wondered!
Cropped from a different photo.

The inside of the church. There was a small private service going on.

The crypt with the remains of Francis Xavier

The building across the street. The Convent and Church of St Francis of Assisi. Part of it has been converted to an Archaelogical Museum. The Tower on the right is part of the Se Cathedral, behind it.

The Mangeshi Devasthan in Goa is a crown jewel of Konkani Temples. The Shiva Linga representing Mangesh, was originally in the ancient temple of Kushastali (Cortalim, Salcete Taluka). When the Portuguese destroyed the original temple in 1561, the linga was relocated across the Zuari River near other konkani temples. The current temple was constructed on land donated by a devotee in the mid- 1800's and has been renovated several times.

Architecturally, the Mangeshi Devasthan is considered highly distinctive of Goan Konkani Style – a mix of several local influences; the Dravidian Vimana, as well as islamic lattices are incorporated. The classically Goan Konkani deep stambha, a seven-storeyed octagonal lamp tower, is very distinctive and observed on many paintings, brochures and travel guides on Goa. Also made famous because this is Lata Mangeshkar's Kula-devasthan.

We visit the Mangeshi temple on every visit to Goa. Its only a few kms from the Ramnathi Devasthan and most of the Konkani temples are clustered together. Just a quick darshan and we will not stay long. But the memories will stay with us for ever.

Note: Pics are either from our visit in September 2002 or September 2004. Above is from 2002.

The side of the Mangeshi Temple (September 2004). It is difficult to get a good picture of the temple and the complete Deep stambha. I'll have to be more creative during my upcoming visit in May.

Lady selling cucumbers outside the temple. This previously posted separately here; and reposted here for completion. Enjoy!

After reading accounts of blatant 'borrowing' of pics on LJ, I have grudgingly added the copyright tags on some pics and *gulp* reduced the resolution to 100 dpi. If you want a higher resolution image for your desktop, please send me an e-mail.
© 2005 Arun Shanbhag

When members of the extended family leave the community in search of opportunities, they maintain connections to their family gods, also called the Kuladevata. “Kula” refers to the home-base of the extended family community, where the lineage of the family can be traced back to. Thus the Ramnath deity is our family’s Kuladevata. All members of the original community and their descendants are called Kulavis (core family members). All Konkanis will have a Kuladevata Devasthan and are in turn kulavis of that temple.

During the Portugese Inquisition in the 1500’s, all Konkani (and Hindu) temples in Goa were destroyed, and churches built in their place. Many Hindus were forced to convert and many others sacrificed their lives for their faith. Libraries, scriptures and literature were systematically destroyed. Devotees smuggled temple deities to safe haven across the Zuari River in what was then part of Goa ruled by a Muslim Sultan from Bijapur. Many Konkanis escaped with few belongings to start new lives elsewhere. Some migrated north to Maharashtra, and most migrated south and settled along the Karnataka Coast. Konkani communities also settled in Cochin and other parts of Kerala.

Devout Konkanis built small temples in each town they settled and kept their faith alive. With the literature destroyed, a dispersed and migrant community maintained the konkani language as an oral tradition. In the 1700s, the Portuguese ended the Inquisition under threat of the British taking over the colony. A status quo was maintained till 1961 when the Portuguese finally left Goa and it became an Indian state. Konkani is now a recognized distinct language in India.

Konkanis dispersed all over the world, thronged to the remote corners of Goa to pay their respects at their Kuladevata temples. Many maintained in wooden shacks were refurbished. Konkani temples are now thriving complexes, representing a symbol of a resilient people; hard working and god fearing.

Considering the circumstances, Konkani temples rebuilt over the decades are not architectural masterpieces. Further, all modern Konkani temples are not where their original communities grew, but clustered across the Zuari River, within 10 miles of each other.

Under the Portugese rule, devotees visited clandestinely from the surrounding states, often involving day-long walks through forests. Appropriately, Konkani temples provide basic accommodations to their devotees. Today, accommodations have been upgraded, but are still spartan. Devotees can get a very basic room at the temple for between $1-$2 per night. One of Goa’s best kept secrets, I’d say. The temples in Ponda are about an hour from Panji the capital, or from the airport near Madgao.

Every time I visit India, I make a beeline to our kuladevata Ramnathi Devasthan in Goa. It is the tradition at Ramnathi and other Konkani temples, for kulavis to visit the deity as soon as you arrive – even before you wash your feet. We leave our sandals/chappals at the door and with dusty feet rush inside to pay our homage to our father protector, guardian and closest confidante. It is akin to the return of a prodigal son (or daughter) and our father wants to see us ASAP, even before we wash our dusty feet. This first visit is thus called “dhool bhaet” (dusty meeting). Only after we pay our respect to the deity, do we then visit the office, rent a room, freshen up and come back into the temple for a proper service.

Due to the remoteness of the area, there are no restaurants around, but for a small shack serving bananas and cold drinks (see pic of shack in this post). We usually ask and are invited to the priest’s house for a delicious konkani vegetarian meal – served on a banana leaf. Per tradition, we leave a small donation for the priest’s family. Many a times, the temple has open lunches sponsored by devotees.

After spending a few days in the serenity of the temple grounds, I will proceed south to visit our relatives and friends.

After learning the history of the Konkani temples, my visits to our kuladevata have more fervor and passion. A recognition of the sacrifices made by our ancestors, so that we may live with their chosen faith. A re-affirmation of my faith, and importantly … courage. Never again will our homes and places of worship be ransacked; and we be forced to choose between the sword or the cross.

Never Again!

Outside the Mangeshi Devasthan in Goa, this lady sold cut cucumbers. It's a refreshing snack in the middle of a hot day. As I composed the pic, I was irritated at this guy walking across, but then I noticed her face light up at an approaching customer! Perfect! For her brilliant smile, and inviting pose, she deserved a post of her own! Notice the contrasting look on the older lady beside her.

© 2005 Arun Shanbhag